Study Tour Japan 2001

Sacred island - voracious deer

UNA-UK Study Tour to Japan 2001

Miyajima Island

Our first impression of Miyajima Island, which we visited as an excursion from Hiroshima, was that it is inhabited by tame deer - there are, it is true, human beings living there, but the deer have obviously taken over. And they are more pushing, more demanding and certainly less honest than the Japanese with whom they share the island - as Elizabeth found out to her cost. One deer filched her 7-day rail pass from her pocket and only the intrepid efforts of Elizabeth, Ruth and Paul, who jointly attacked the surprised animal, resulted in its rescue, somewhat battered but still readable. Ticket inspectors subsequently accepted it without demur; maybe it is part of Japanese life to have rail passes chewed up. Apart from maps and rail passes taken from tourists, the deer live on a diet of crackers, sold for the purpose by wayside peddlers.

The whole island is sacred; and officially nobody is allowed to die or give birth there. Trees may not be felled so that there are widespread virgin forests. It houses famous (Shinto) shrines and (Buddhist) temples and is an area of great natural beauty.

The 'Floating' Torii of Itsukushima shrine is one of the most famous sights in Japan. It doesn't really float but stands in the water in the bay. The shrine, too, stands in water, the depth depending on the tide. Torii are the gateways with two characteristic rails, the upper rail being curved at the ends, which mark the entrance to the sacred precincts of Shinto shrines. The floating torii was first built in the 12th century but the current structure dates from 1875.

By contrast, away from the crowds, stands the Daisho-in Temple a haven of calm with a wide and eclectic mix of Buddhist statues and other artifacts. The grounds round it are wildly beautiful with oases of Japanese gardens. And cherry trees everywhere.

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